Parkside Shorts and Skirt Sew-Along Day 2 + Double Welt Pocket Tutorial

Today, we are going to start sewing our Parkside Shorts and Skirt! Yippee!

Before we begin, have you grabbed your copy of the Parkside Shorts + Skirt yet? And have you joined our closed group on facebook? I hope to see you there!Parkside Shorts and Skirt Sew-a-long || SewCaroline.comFirst, we will cover steps 1-4. At the bottom of this post I will provide a double welt pocket tutorial. If you want to add welt pockets to the back of your shorts, skip down to the tutorial and start there, you’ll want to do this before you start sewing your shorts or skirt!

Steps 1-4 from the instructions are the same for the shorts and the skirt, so whichever you are sewing today will follow these same instructions.

For the Parkside Shorts and Skirt, there are two different methods for sewing the pockets. One method you sew the pockets directly to the shorts/skirt front (option one). The other method you pull the pocket and pocket lining away from from the shorts and sew one those pieces together (option two). Both pocket types are functional, it’s really up to you on how you decide to sew them. I’ll show you both here today.

Step One (for both options): Finish the outer edge of the pocket lining (I like to serge mine, you can also use a zig zag stitch) and align the other edge to the curve in the shorts front. Pin in place and sew using a 1/4″ seam allowance.
Parkside Shorts and Skirt Sew-a-long || SewCaroline.comClip the seam allowance, be sure not to clip through your stitches.Parkside Shorts and Skirt Sew-a-long || SewCaroline.comFlip the pocket lining to the wrong side and press in place nicely along the curved edge. Top stitch 1/8″ from the pressed seam.Parkside Shorts and Skirt Sew-a-long || SewCaroline.comOPTION ONE:

Finish the curved edge of the pocket pice using a serger or zig zag stitch.

Turn the garment to the wrong side and align the pocket with the pocket lining. The wrong sides will be facing up. Pin in place and stitch along the finished edge. You will be stitching through the pocket, pocket lining, and shorts/skirt front.Parkside Shorts and Skirt Sew-a-long || SewCaroline.com

OPTION TWO:

Finish the curved edge of the pocket pice using a serger or zig zag stitch.

Turn the garment to the wrong side and align the pocket with the pocket lining. The wrong sides will be facing up. Pin the pocket to the pocket lining along the finished edge. Pull away from the shorts front and stitch together at 1/4″ (I like to simply serge mine!).

Parkside Shorts and Skirt Sew-a-long || SewCaroline.com IMG_8772-(1)At this point, you can also baste stitch (4-5 stitch length) along the sides and top to secure the pockets to the shorts/skirt front pieces.

Tomorrow we will cover steps 5-10 plus I’ll show you how to add side slits to the Parkside Shorts and skirt.

If you want to add double welt pockets to your shorts or skirt, be sure to complete the steps below before we begin tomorrow.

Double Welt Pocket Tutorial

Double Welt Pocket Tutorial || SewCaroline.com

I love the professional look of a double welt pocket. They’re really not that hard to sew, but just take a little time and precision. You up for a bit of a challenge? Great, because here we go!

First, you’ll need to determine where you want the pocket to sit on the back pattern piece. I wear a size medium in the Parkside Shorts and Skirt and found that measuring 2″ from the top and 2.5″ from the right gave me a great pocket placement point. From this point, I drew a straight line towards the left (what will eventually be the side seam). You’ll need to adjust this depending on your size. I’d suggest making a muslin first to determine the positioning of your double welt pocket as well as for practicing a double welt pocket if you’ve never sewn one. After you’ve determined your positioning, you can get all your supplies ready.

The instructions below are to make TWO double welt pockets with a standard 5″ opening. If you want just one you’ll need half the supplies and do half the work 😉

Supplies for the double welt pocket:

  • Fabric for pocket linings (about 1/4 yard – this amount of fabric will be sufficient for lining, facings, and welts)
  • Fabric for pocket facings (3″ x 7″ scraps)
  • Fabric for welts (3″ x7″ scraps)
  • Lightweight garment interfacing (1/4 yard)
  • Marking tool (I love Frixon pens, they disappear with heat)
  • Small, sharp scissors (these are my favorite)
  • Pins

Double Welt Pocket – STEP ONE

Cut your fabric:

  • Cut two Pocket Linings at 7″ x 11″
  • Cut two Pocket Facings at 3″ x7″
  • Cut two Welts at 3″ x 7″
  • Cut four interfacings at 3″ x 7″

Next, apply two of the interfacings to the two welts.Double Welt Pocket Tutorial || SewCaroline.com

Double Welt Pocket – STEP TWO

Finish one of the long sides of the pocket facings and welts. You can finish these raw edges with a serger or a zig zag stitch on your regular machine.

Lay one of the pocket linings right side up and align the interfaced welt at the top, right side up, with the finished edge facing down. Align the pocket facing at the bottom, right side up, with the finished edge facing up. Pin in place and repeat for the other pocket lining.Double Welt Pocket Tutorial || SewCaroline.com

Double Welt Pocket – STEP THREE

Sew along the finished (serged) edges (using about a 2.4 stitch length) of the welts and pocket facings and baste stitch ( using a 4-5 stitch length) around the other three sides.

On the wrong side of your shorts or skirt, mark the opening. This will be a 5″ line starting at the placement point (for my size medium, I started at 2″ from the top and 2.5″ from the right).  Be sure that your line is parallel to the HEM of your shorts. The waistline of the shorts pattern increases towards the middle back, so your line may look crooked, but just be sure it is parallel to the HEM. Mark the other side in the same manner being sure they are evenly spaced.

Take your garment interfacings and center a 7″ straight line. On top of this line, center a 5″ box that has a height of 1/2″. I found it easiest to mark a 6″ line 1/4″ from the 7″ line on top and bottom and connect on the left and right sides.Double Welt Pocket Tutorial || SewCaroline.com

Double Welt Pocket – STEP FOUR

Center the interfacing on top of the line you drew on the garment and pin in place. Stitch all the way around the box and then fuse to the garment.

Next, align the interfaced welt end of the pocket lining to sewn box. Your garment should be RIGHT SIDE UP and the pocket lining should be RIGHT SIDE DOWN. Pin in place. Repeat this for the other side.Double Welt Pocket Tutorial || SewCaroline.com

Double Welt Pocket – STEP FIVE

Turn your garment to the WRONG side and stitch along the TOP and BOTTOM of the box you sewed earlier (note: I changed threads in this photo so you can’t see the box that I sewed earlier.)Double Welt Pocket Tutorial || SewCaroline.comBaste stitch (4-5 stitch length) 1/4″ above the top line of stitching and 1/4″ below the bottom line of stitching. Repeat this for the other side.Double Welt Pocket Tutorial || SewCaroline.com

Double Welt Pocket – STEP SIX

Turn your garment to the right side and fold the top of the pocket lining down (along the basting stitch) and press in place. Double Welt Pocket Tutorial || SewCaroline.comTurn your garment again to the wrong side and stitch along the top line again. This secures the fold in place.Double Welt Pocket Tutorial || SewCaroline.comFold the pocket lining up against the bottom basting stitch and press in place. Be sure to move the top piece of the lining (that you just sewed down) out of the way. Turn to the wrong side and stitch along the bottom stitching line again. Repeat this step for the other side.
Double Welt Pocket Tutorial || SewCaroline.com

Double Welt Pocket – STEP SEVEN

Cut through the pocket bag lining ONLY from one side to the other for both sides of your shorts or skirt.Double Welt Pocket Tutorial || SewCaroline.com

Double Welt Pocket – STEP EIGHT

Turn your garment to the wrong side mark inside the box 1/2″ from the edges and centered, from this point mark to the corners.Double Welt Pocket Tutorial || SewCaroline.comSnip down the center and to the corners (using your marks as guides).Double Welt Pocket Tutorial || SewCaroline.comUse your seam ripper and remove the basting stitches. Repeat for the other side.

Double Welt Pocket – STEP NINE

Push the pocket lining to the wrong side of the garment and press flat so the welts match nicely on the front. Repeat for the other side.Double Welt Pocket Tutorial || SewCaroline.com Double Welt Pocket Tutorial || SewCaroline.com

Double Welt Pocket – STEP TEN

From the wrong side of your garment, fold the pocket lining up and align the bottom edge of the pocket lining to the top edge and pin in place. Pull the pocket lining away from the garment and stitch or serge around all three raw edges being careful to not stitch or serge through the garment. Repeat for the other side and continue with the rest of the pattern.Double Welt Pocket Tutorial || SewCaroline.com Double Welt Pocket Tutorial || SewCaroline.com

4 thoughts on “Parkside Shorts and Skirt Sew-Along Day 2 + Double Welt Pocket Tutorial

  1. Just got fabric yesterday, I”m hoping to sew up a pair this weekend! Can I ask what type of is that you use for marking? I’m always looking for a good one!

      • Hi Michelle, they’re Frixion Pens and I have them linked under the “materials list” above =)

Leave a Reply

Your email address will not be published. Required fields are marked *